Photo: Reuters
Suggesting men wear skirts is definitely not a new idea on themen’s fashion scene, but at last week’s Paris men’s shows theclassic trouser is taking more than a beating.
Excepting luxury house Hermes, which Saturday offered up a bevyof classic narrow trousers, pleated narrow trousers, and even widetrousers ideal for the dying breed of golden boys or morestately-shaped bigwigs, men’s pants may be heading for arevolution.
Take that other icon of discreet elegance, Yves Saint Laurent,for example.
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Click for more photos Men’s pants re-imagined in Paris
John Galliano’s Fall/Winter 2009-2010 men’s collection. Photo: Reuters
Showing the label’s latest designs at the four-day autumn/winter2009-2010 Paris shows, Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati threwaway long trousers in favour of low-crotch pants cut halfway downthe calf and worn over leggings.
Wearing short pants over long pants – perhaps to keep out thecold in the harsh economic times on the horizon – seemed a popularidea that also highlighted the show by Japan’s Yohji Yamamoto ofworker-inspired grunge-like cuts.
Kenzo men’s stylist Antonio Marras was like-minded.
Parading a collection he said was inspired by “great motherland”Russia, models strode the catwalk in thick leggings tucked intoboots, or very creased-looking trousers not fit for a jobinterview.
Another big classical name in men’s style, France’s Ungaro, alsodid away with the elegant straight pants or pleated pants whichonce epitomised male elegance.
That may be hardly surprising as the fashion industry looksahead to tough times and mirrors consumer demands for simplicityrather than ostentation.
Instead, trousers from the house’s designer Franck Boclet huggedthe body like jeans, were sliced off above – sometimes well above -the ankle and often folded over at the bottom in a kind ofcasual-looking cuff. And many of Ungaro’s pants worn under stylishjackets in fact were made of denim.
There were tight pants too at Louis Vuitton, while Belgiandesigner Kris Van Assche, who as the shows wind up on Sundaypresents his collection for Dior, also went for leggings.
Rick Owens, the US “grunge glamour” king showing for the firsttime in Paris, likewise cut some of his gothic-style pants off atmid-calf.
As for skirts, the designer best known for proposing skirts formen, France’s wild “bad boy” of fashion Jean Paul Gaultier, putplenty of his models in skirts worn over pants, or even just simplykilts – while thumbing his nose at gender dress codes by throwingwomen on the catwalk in pants.
And Dutch designer Francisco Van Benthum, also a newcomer to theParis shows, threw pleated aprons over pants.
But the best in the new androgyny may have been John Galliano’sman in underwear, sporting a pink suspender belt and stockings.
AFP